Tips To Clear A Green Pool There is nothing worse than a "swampy" green pool. Here are some helpful tips to help you clear your "swamp." It is important to remember that this is not a quick process, whether you decide to remedy the problem yourself or call us to do the work for you. By following these instructions you will be able to get your pool from a "swamp" to the crystal clear pool you once had and enjoyed. Remove as much debris from the bottom of the pool as you can. By using a leaf rake you will be able to scoop larger quantities of debris at a time than a skimmer net. This process will stir up the water and cause the water to look worse than what it did before but it is a necessary 1st step. The stirred up debris will settle, you can also add a clarifier to coagulate the floating particles. Do not vacuum your pool until you can see the bottom. Adjust the PH and Alkalinity levels of the pool. Super Chlorinate the pool. (Shock the pool) It is best to use liquid chlorine for this process. Depending on the severity of the pool water it may be necessary to add several gallons of shock over a period of a few days until the pool has cleared. It is recommended not to add shock to the pool until the majority of the debris and leaves have been removed. By adding the shock you will gradually see the pool go from black to green, or from green to cloudy. At this point you can add a high concentrate algaecide. Run your filter for 24hrs. It is important to watch the pressure of your filter and continuously backwash the filter several times a day When the water does clear up you will find leaves and debris along with dead algae and streaks of algae along your pool walls and bottom. If the remaining debris and algae isn't too severe you can vacuum it through your own system. Algaecides: Many Cures Algae are constantly infecting water through airborne contact, which is accelerated by rain and wind. If algae spores are killed off as they enter the water by using repeated maintenance doses of algaecides, the incidents of alga bloom are effectively eliminated. This is an "insurance policy" approach compared to the cost of treating alga bloom. If algae does bloom (become visible), then the best approach is to adjust the pH= 7.2-7.8, shock treat the water with 7-10 ppm of available chlorine, brush all surfaces vigorously, and follow with a killing dose ( 5x maintenance dose) of algaecide. Continue to filter and backwash, if necessary, during the entire episode. According to the United States EPA (Environmental Protection Agency) all approved algaecides prevent and kill most strains of algae. There is no rule or clear-cut order to determine which algaecide to use, so choosing algaecides is similar to choosing medicines. Start with your favored choice and proceed from there. If algae persists, try another choice. Here are the algaecide choices and their characteristics: Quat Type: This is the nickname for Quaternary ammonium chloride. It is economical, long lasting, non-staining (non-metallic), excellent wetting properties (penetrates microscopic cracks). Will foam if overdosed. Best used for floating green, clinging green and pink algae. Polymer Type: This is the nickname for an organic polymer. It is fairly expensive, very long lasting, non-staining, and non-foaming. Manufacturer data suggests it is more stable in the presence of high chlorine than "quats." Best used for black (Dark green complex) and pink algae. Copper Type: This is a chelated (controlled) copper solution. It is very economical, very long lasting, and non-foaming. Can cause blue staining or "green" hair. Best used for floating green and mustard algae. Silver Type: This is a silver colloid (controlled) solution. It is very expensive, short lived (curative use only), and non-foaming. Can cause brown staining if mis-handled. Best used for black and mustard algae. All other approved algaecides are dilutions or blends of these four types. Algae: Some Stubborn Facts Algaecides are not necessary because chlorine kills all. This may be true in theory, but the chlorine level must be kept high at all times (3 ppm or higher) and not permitted to slip. This can be expensive, irritating to swimmers, will lead to bleached swimwear and vinyl liners, and is difficult to maintain. Even in high chlorine, some algae "habitate" or become accustomed to a steady level. In tropical areas, for example, black algae sets "roots" and seals itself with a tar-like coating that is unaffected by high levels of chlorine. Mustard algae is another algae that seems to thrive in chlorinated water. Algaecides are killers and Algaestats are preventatives. This may be true by definition but one product does both jobs. The EPA does not recognize the difference between killing visible algae (Algaecide) and killing invisible algae (Algaestat). Invisible algae sounds like a contradiction but, in fact, thousands of algae are growing before they become visible in an algae bloom. Algae can be filtered out of water. This is true for "colonies" of algae that are visible in the water, but is not true for single ceil algae, for example, that exist as small as 0.5 micron. Diatomaceous earth (DE) filters particles down to 1-3 microns, sand filters particles down to 15-20 microns, cartridge filters particles down to about 20 microns. Generally, if you can see it, you can filter it. Algae doesn't grow in cold water. Temperatures have to drop to near freezing before algae move into a dormant state. Studies in the Arctic Circle indicate that as long as light is present, algae will grow. Algae doesn't grow in low pH water. Not true. The most common types of algae such as "planktonic blue-greens" prefer pH= 7.4-9.0. but many types live in pH= 5.0-7.0. During periods of hot weather and intense sunlight, photosynthesis is at its peak. As algae grow, carbon dioxide (food for algae) is withdrawn from the water and the pH drifts upward. It is most common to see a green pool with a pH= 8.0. Algae doesn't grow in cold water. Temperatures have to drop to near freezing before algae move into a dormant state. Studies in the Arctic Circle indicate that as long as light is present, algae will grow. Algae doesn't grow in low pH water. Not true. The most common types of algae such as "planktonic blue-greens" prefer pH= 7.4-9.0. but many types live in pH= 5.0-7.0. During periods of hot weather and intense sunlight, photosynthesis is at its peak. As algae grow, carbon dioxide (food for algae) is withdrawn from the water and the pH drifts upward. It is most common to see a green pool with a pH= 8.0. Back To FAQ's